When Morning Glory leads you on to Thai food


A plant with bluish flowers provides a lot pleasure to my artistically inclined close to and expensive ones. It provides me nice pleasure, too, however for various causes. I’m reminded of some glorious food that I had in Thailand, ready with the leaves of the plant, referred to as the Morning Glory. I had by no means had it in India earlier than that, however I later learnt that its Indian cousin is cooked in varied methods throughout the nation. Still, one thing concerning the leaves will at all times remind me of the scrumptious food of Thailand.

So, after I heard that top-of-the-line Thai eating places on the town was now delivering food – and had a dish of steamed fish with crispy morning glory on the menu — I used to be tremendously tempted. The restaurant within the Sangam Courtyard complicated known as Ziu, and I’ve had some nice meals there. Now, within the interval of the lockdown, it’s delivering food throughout Delhi and Gurugram. Ziu’s food was at all times particular, for it served what might be described as nouvelle Thai. There was a tweak to the dishes that tremendously enhanced the style – and the way in which it appeared.

Slow cooked rooster in home-made Thai inexperienced sauce Pic Credit: Special Arrangement  

I referred to as up one of many numbers that had been forwarded to me (9958677731 and 011-26180711) and requested for Roasted Chicken Nutmeg Curry Paste and Coriander, served on rice (₹455); Slow Cooked Chicken with Mustard Cress and Thai Basil in Home-made Thai Green Sauce (₹725); Stir-fried Lamb in a Red Bird’s Eye Chilli and Crispy Holy Basil Sauce (₹825); and Wok Tossed Silken Tofu and Seasonal Vegetables in Roasted Sticky Rice Powder and Chilli Lime Sauce (₹625). My invoice got here to rather less than ₹3,100. And Ziu added (free of charge) a dish of Som Tam to my order — crispy fried shredded inexperienced papaya served with freshly pounded roasted peanut, lengthy inexperienced beans and spicy chicken’s eye chilli with a lime dressing.

I had visited Ziu some years in the past, and keep in mind being fully floored by the food and the service. The younger man behind the restaurant – Gurmehar Sethi – had earlier labored in locations corresponding to Nobu Dubai, Mayfair London and Banyan Tree in Thailand. I keep in mind he had informed me the phrase Ziu stood for cultivated. For the food, he defined, went past the standard.

I fully agree with him. Take his papaya salad. He has turned this dish round by crispy frying the shredded papaya. To this he provides roasted peanuts and a chicken’s eye chilli-lime dressing. The dressing and the peanuts got here in separate containers. We combined it up—and the end result was one thing that I may have made a full meal of.

The appetiser that we had requested for —Roasted Chicken Served on Crispy Rice Crackers — was excellent. The rice, like murmura, had been changed into crunchy little bases, and the minced rooster was good and spicy. I like inexperienced curries, so I loved the rooster dish. The rooster had soaked in all of the flavours of the Thai herbs within the curry, which was neither too runny, nor too thick. The lamb was out of this world. The meat was juicy, but crispy, and the sauce was deliciously piquant. Though I’m not a lot of a tofu fan (I assumed we wanted to order one thing non-meaty for a healthful meal), I fairly preferred it, too. The tofu was gentle and gentle, and the sauces had been robust. We didn’t ask for the fish with crispy morning glory, for folk at residence are nowadays not as keen on fish as they had been. Another time, maybe.

In these darkish days, locations corresponding to Ziu supply us a heat little beam of sunshine. Jiyo, Ziu.

The author is seasoned food critic

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