Whether the nice ilish divide or the salame dispute, food arguments can simply escalate into bitter war
This lethal insult to the salame beloved of her mom, grandmother and all her ancestors will make the spouse take off on the culinary vandalism inflicted on Italy by the philistines populating her husband’s dwelling area — ‘…it amazes me they know how to open their mouths and put food into it!’ At this level, any impartial bystander normally begins to slip the kitchen knives and heavy vessels out of sight.
I’ve seen different Italians argue intensely in regards to the provenance of the very best pesto and gnocchi, the French get sharp about completely different cheeses and wine, the English and Irish brewing killer stares over the life-and-death matter of whisky, and the Germans rising into excessive dudgeon over competing claims of bread and beer from completely different elements of their nation.
Back dwelling, the food arguments are equally epic. There is one South Indian pal, an excellent mimic, who has a complete stand-up comedy routine about utthapams: he goes into completely different Southy accents, every describing the ‘correct’ utthapam whereas deriding all of the impostor recipes from different States.
Come to Bengal and also you enter a continually raging firefight of arguments about fish. There is the nice ilish divide, the place Ghotis from the west put the ilish from the Ganga on a pedestal whereas sneering on the ilish discovered within the Padma; in return Bangals from the east and Bangladeshis revere the queen of Padma — ‘what do Ghotis know of ilish? You can’t name that factor that swims in sewage and manufacturing facility effluents by the sacred title of ilish!’
There can also be the argument about how you can prepare dinner the ilish: Ghotis declare that Bangals fry it and add too many spices, whereas the easiest way to respect the fragile piscatrious empress is to simply slide it uncooked into rice that’s cooking and gently let it steam. Within Bangladesh too, there are arguments over, say, katol fish and rui fish, one extensive, the opposite slim, with folks from jap districts, votaries of rui, shaking their heads on the folks from the western districts and their unusual desire for katol. A Bengali will say about Bengalis from a unique space: ‘They don’t know fish, we do.’
Now, if anyone is aware of their freshwater fish, it’s Bengalis, simply as Italians know their salame. So what precisely is occurring when two folks or two teams of individuals argue about one thing that’s unnis-bees, 19/20 in style? Suddenly, I’m reminded of a pal who’s deeply into Hindustani classical music. ‘You know, I’ve tried to love Carnatic, however I simply can’t stand it,’ he as soon as confessed. ‘The raag starts and it’s very acquainted, however then they sing it unsuitable!’
I’m additionally reminded of the primary time I drank tea at a roadside stall in Maharashtra and practically spat it out. It was acquainted, as in it was clearly associated to the roadside tea in Calcutta, Delhi, Ahmedabad and Bombay, nevertheless it tasted unsuitable.
If you attempt food from a very completely different tradition, it’s potential you’ll discover it alien. It’s additionally potential that you simply’ll fall head over heels in love with it as a complete, whereas lacking out on the nuances, at the least at first. So an Indian who turns into infatuated with Japanese food, say, could not be capable of discern the refined variations between the rice from Niigata and Yamagata prefectures whereas gorging down every thing Nipponese; and a Japanese who falls in love with Indian food could not be capable of make out the distinction between Karnataka-style sambhar and the kind from Tamil Nadu.
The drawback comes not from one thing that’s radically exterior your expertise however from one thing that’s acquainted but betrays the expectations of your style buds (or, within the case of music, your ears), one thing through which only one or two small parts are modified from what you’ve beforehand skilled.
The Italian couple, as an example, love Indian food and every time they go to India it’s like watching two gluttonous love birds. From my facet, every time I’ve seen them begin to argue about their salame, I’ve jumped in and begged them to get completely different varieties from each their areas.
Ruchir Joshi is a filmmaker and columnist.