There’s room for drama: designer Amit Aggarwal makes a case for his textured futuristic gowns


The bride is in a gold Amit Aggarwal costume made fully by embroidering polymer strips on tulle, with a moulded bodice in sequin and bugle bead embroidery. This is on an episode of Amazon Prime Video’s April drop, Four More Shots Please! At a time when style editors and designers are having conversations in regards to the want for minimalism, what with weddings being downsized by Covid-19, one wonders if there’s room for Aggarwal’s beautiful model of sartorial drama. The designer says ‘yes’. “The entire language of weddings is going to change with social distancing as the norm. But it won’t change how the bride and groom want to look and feel,” he insists.

We are on a telephone name the place Aggarwal, 39, remembers his solo grand finale (his first) at Lakme Fashion Week in February. It featured the extremely engineered occasion-wear he’s recognized for, with recycled polymers and industrial waste as elaborations. The sculptural ingredient was in tune with what was additionally seen on the Paris Fashion Week spring/summer time 2020 exhibits. “We had the collection at the store in the first week of March. We were swamped with bookings and orders and client appointments,” says Aggarwal. Per week earlier than lockdown he made the choice to close his retailer and manufacturing facility, referring to the security of his shoppers and his 300-strong workforce.

Moving sculptures

Since then he has put his retail enlargement plans on maintain, focussing as a substitute on the sustainable aesthetic of his label. “The language is not going to significantly change. This situation gives us more reason to make it relevant,” says the designer whose 18 years in style consists of working with couturier Tarun Tahiliani. The plan is to edit, not add. “We have always spoken about the coexistence of natural and manmade. We are going to control all our purchases, with no imported fabrics. The first step is to work with our existing resources.” Taking pointers from his life-style during the last month – he shares his desire for dal chawal and says washing utensils will be therapeutic! – he hopes to implement this simplicity at work publish lockdown. Excess materials will go into creating “something new and fresh, an interesting story for clients”.

Stylist’s take

  • Elle’s style director Malini Banerji, who helped model Amit Aggarwal’s Axil assortment for each the editorial and runway, says confidence is essential to the gathering.
  • “You will need to edit and see how it works for you. People around the bride will need to wear something dramatic for the evening, and the pre-draped saris are modern. They can be styled in so many ways. At the end of the day, you want to look like you made an effort. And with a ‘make or break’ outfit, you don’t need to load up on jewellery.”

Like his fellow designers, Aggarwal has been utilising this time to “look inwards”, by way of sketches and poems which are usually showcased on the model’s Instagram web page. “They are drawings that don’t have a purpose. Otherwise 90% of my sketches are about a collection or facilitating a client’s request,” he says. Last month, he shared a sketch of “man fornicating with nature” with the digital journal, Voice of Fashion. It was accompanied by verse. “After an apocalypse, there is a ray of hope. I don’t want to enter the dark side. This is a time when you can build a new fantastical world around you,” he says.

Kareena Kapoor Khan strolling the ramp at Amit Aggarwal’s LFW SS’20 present  
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Working with separates

He refers to how considerate manufacturers have been instilling hope, a few of his favourites being the initiatives by luxurious homes Valentino and Alexander McQueen, the place poetry and creativity play a function. While we converse, he alerts me to a parrot that has simply visited his balcony – a first for him in his South Delhi home. “This pause or lockdown has shown that multiple dimensions can exist together beautifully,” he says.

Big model concept

  • Each week on Instagram, Alexander McQueen publicizes a artistic problem to artists. This week, followers have been requested to experiment with embroidery, and take inspiration from the model’s bee attire from 2013. Meanwhile, Valentino’s Instagram feed has seen performances by Alicia Keys and poet Rupi Kaur.

As for his collections, from the brand new age saris with plisse particulars to the geometric blouses with wings, he says a number of wearability is essential. “Our clothes are occasion wear and worn by brides. But if you are going for an opulent blouse, make your skirt simpler so you can wear it later with a jacket for a pared-down look.” It helps that the attire don’t include an beneath layer and are thus gentle. “That is an important decision we made early on. It feels like couture but can be stored in a tiny box,” guarantees Aggarwal.

Saris begin at ₹70,000 and the gowns begin at round ₹1.5 lakh.

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