In Delhi, the hand behind Mosaic is back as Culinary Connections


One little nook of Connaught Place was once an important favorite of mine. There was a beautiful Greek restaurant there (greater than 15 years in the past), and I nonetheless fondly bear in mind its dolmas. Then that shut, however to my utter pleasure, a restaurant got here up as a substitute which had a large spectrum of meals from the states, together with from the northeast. But all good issues come to an finish, in order that restaurant — referred to as Mosaic — shut, too.

Did I say all good issues come to an finish? Not all the time. After many ups and downs, and several other eating places right here and there, the deft hand behind Mosaic is now wielding the spatula once more. My buddy Sohail had alerted me to the truth {that a} new outfit referred to as Culinary Connections by Utpala Mukherjee (Ph: 9811157989 and 9350155045) was delivering meals. I had a have a look at the menu and located a few of my outdated favourites there. So, I promptly referred to as up and positioned a modest order.

A really blissful meal later, I had a chat with the chef. An Assamese, she grew up in Shillong, learnt how you can cook dinner from her mom after which began her culinary improvisations. She ran Mosaic, the YWCA Kitchen, and the restaurant in Assam Bhavan for some time. After the lockdown, she determined to start out a supply service.

The menu has a pleasant selection, with some alternative dishes below Western, Bengali, and Northeastern Sections. Every week, it has one thing particular to supply. This week it is daab chingri (prawns cooked in coconut milk, ₹700), pork sorpotel (₹375), and thor (a dish of tender banana stem, ₹300).

We requested for a full roast hen with onion sauce, mashed potatoes, and glazed greens (half, Rs 325; full, Rs 450), shepherd’s pie (₹400), dhokar dalna (₹175), muttar puri with alur dum (₹150), and patishapta (₹150). We received a reduction, and the invoice (with supply fees) got here to ₹1,225.

I loved the roast, which got here with a scrumptious sauce. The hen was neither too dry, nor underdone, and the dripping from the roast had been cooked with onions and a few secret components, Mukherjee says. It didn’t include mashed potatoes however complete, browned potatoes, which went fantastically with the roast that was excellent.

The shepherd’s pie was glorious, too — although considerably totally different from the manner I cook dinner it. It had bits of chopped carrots in it (the conventional recipe does have carrots) and the flavour of the Worcestershire sauce was sturdy.

Among Bengali dishes, dhokar dalna is considered one of my favourites. It is a dish of steamed lentil truffles in a tomato-onion gravy. I had a few of that with the muttar puris (every plate had 4 puris) and the aloo — which was a scrumptious dish of potatoes, boiled and fried, after which cooked with ginger, garlic, onion, tomatoes, and spices.

The patishapta disillusioned me. It was a lot too small, I assumed, and will have achieved with a thicker filling of kheer.

I’d have favored some pork, however I’d OD-ed on the meat the week earlier than, so stayed away from my favorite northeastern dish of pork cooked with black sesame paste (₹250) and roast pork with cream spinach and mashed potatoes (₹325).

The Western part additionally contains roast lamb with mint sauce (₹400), fish and chips (₹385), vegetable crepes in cheese sauce (₹250) and vegetable au gratin (₹250). Also on the menu are machher paturi (grilled mustard fish: ₹300) and hen rezala (₹235). Our associates, the Farooquis, ordered the rezala, and stated it was umda (excellent).

The meals is umda, certainly.

The author is a seasoned meals critic

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